Hemp or Hype?

Industrial hemp is in the spotlight again, and for good reason. The new Farm Bill that the Senate passed 87-13 in December now legalizes the commercial production of hemp, freeing it from the shackles of the Controlled Substance Act and severely curtailing the number of restrictions that have prevented farmers from raising it as a…

How Levi’s and Outerknown Reclaimed Hemp from the Hippies

Rare is the San Francisco party where Paul Dillinger, head of global product innovation at Levi Strauss, isn’t accosted by “some hippie” extolling the wonders of industrial hemp and demanding to know why the denim giant isn’t doing more with it. “The answer is always, ‘Well, just look at yourself hippie,’” Dillinger told Rivet with…

Axing Aniline? Not so Fast.

Aniline is a problem for the denim industry. Or it isn’t. It depends on whom you ask. Certainly the chemical, a building block for synthetic indigo, is the cause of some concern for Archroma, a Swiss specialty chemicals firm that debuted a so-called “aniline-free” indigo dye, which boasts undetectable levels of the agent, in May….

Denim Manufacturing Plots Comeback to NYC’s Garment District

One style of jean—just one. That’s all Christine Rucci wants brands to commit to making in New York City. In the 35 years she’s spent working with “pretty much every major designer and denim icon,” including Adriano Goldschmied, Ralph Lauren, and Donna Karan, Rucci has witnessed Manhattan’s historic Garment District transform from the epicenter of…

This Fall, Blue Jeans are Going Green

No, your eyes don’t deceive you. Blue jeans are getting greener—figuratively speaking, anyway. It was only a matter of time before the humble workwear staple-turned-fashion essential reinvented itself. As shoppers begin to look askance at products that don’t dovetail with their values, denim’s reputation as a resource-hungry pollution powerhouse hasn’t served it well. Environmental groups…

The Future of Pre- and Post-Consumer Denim Leans on Innovation

Everything old is new again, at least where the denim industry is concerned. If the trade show floor of Denim Première Vision in November was anything to go by, mills like Kilim Denim, Ortalu Andalou, and Tavex are churning out fabrics made from castoff clothing at record rates. And brands and retailers such as ASOS,…